Category: Cadence
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From shopping for socks in Georgian script to steering a boat down the Kura River, a patio tikka masala, a park violinist, and finally the candlelit Conservatoire — a day in the life of a Georgian.
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From Gudiashvili’s hope-and-darkness modernism to Javakhi’s paradigm-breaking wordplay — a museum day in Tbilisi that ended with a Georgian word for despair that English can’t translate.
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A quiet day of metro neighborhoods and Imeretian khachapuri, then a transcendent evening at the Tbilisi State Conservatoire — Sandro Nebieridze and Sandro Gegechkori unleashing a two-piano rainbow from Montsalvatge to Shostakovich.
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From the 1905 funicular climbing 770 metres to Mtatsminda Park’s cliffside Ferris wheel, to the silence of the Pantheon, to eight Georgian tenors singing polyphony in a palace garden — Day 10 was a vertical journey through Tbilisi’s heights.
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From the massive stone pillars of the Chronicles of Georgia to the hilltop walls of Sighnaghi and the rose-scented sanctuary of Bodbe Monastery — a day of monuments, wine, and pilgrimage through Kakheti.
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A day trip to the 6th-century David Gareji cave monastery on the Azerbaijan border — rainbow mountains, a wind-powered fall, coconut churchkhela at Nato & Gio, and a Georgian road trip playlist.
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From leftover khinkali to Dezerter Bazaar’s sensory overload, a Thai palate reset, Persian shashlik at 1001 Nights, and Brazilian bossa nova at Nilo — Day 6 in Tbilisi was a culinary and cultural hopscotch.
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Tbilisi doesn’t really wake up till 10. Every city has its rhythm, and Tbilisi’s is late — the restaurants open at 9 if you’re lucky, the streets stay quiet, the buses run half-empty. On Day 4, with this knowledge in hand, I made my own breakfast. Groceries from the Day 1 run: eggs, bread, whatever…
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Three final days in Tirana: a last massage at Lotus Spa, cleaning the apartment, and the definitive ‘Best of Tirana’ — Tymi, Delibros, Vila 7 pizza, Mon Chéri coffee, Berat, Lake Ohrid, Albanian Nights, and the bakery a block away. Plus a farewell to Albania after three weeks.
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The mountains are cursed. That’s what our tour guide said and he explained why. We leave Tirana at dawn and within an hour the landscape has turned biblical — jagged peaks with clouds dragging across their shoulders, valleys so deep they swallow the light. By 9:33 am we reach the Macedonian border. By 10:15, Lake…