First full day in Riga: the National Museum of Art’s fourteen masters, Museum LV’s contemporary competition, Esplanade Park’s fountains, a Viator taste tour through Central Market’s Zeppelin hangars, a perfect Cobb salad at Abbey, the Black Heads House, and Nepalese dinner at Himalaya.
Day 2 in Tallinn: the incense-filled Nevsky Cathedral, Niguliste’s Dance of Death chapel and thundering pipe organ, an Estonian cooking class with Soviet-era stories, barley bread, Brita cake, and bread bowls under an electric heater in the Old Town square.
Our first meal in Tallinn: Estonian fried cheese, a sauce that waged war on blandness, and an AI-generated jazz soundtrack in a medieval basement. The ferry from Helsinki delivered us to a city that wastes no time making an impression.
A day at Suomenlinna, Helsinki’s UNESCO-listed sea fortress: 270 years of military history spread across six islands, granite ramparts, tunnels, a submarine, and a brewery. Sensory notes coming after our visit.
A free open-air concert, the scent of frying churros, and glasses of amber liquor shared with strangers. Helsinki’s Kasarmitori Square on a perfect July night.