Shkoder Day 1: A walk through the Marubi photography museum, breakfast at Nam Bistro with orange juice that tastes of Valencia, and an unforgettable evening feast — 26 dishes, 4 kilos of rose petals, and a host who turns out to be a software-developer-philosopher rolling grape leaves by hand.
It was a light day today as it’s been a long week. The morning was all about getting one last walk through the University of Wein Botanical Gardens and soak in the last few minutes of Vienna nature. Not much is blooming except for the Sauppler effect. I walk the gardens and end up…
From the scent of the Danube and the zany colors of Hundertwasser to a quiet Gothic church and a German-dubbed Odyssey — Vienna’s first day was a sensory feast.
From a ruby-leafed tree in a forgotten botanical garden to a bowl of goulash that bridged years and borders, and a harp on cobblestones that made up for a closed symphony hall.
Riga Central Market’s zeppelin-hangar produce halls, a pipe organ concert that shook 800-year-old stone, roast chicken in a candlelit medieval dungeon, and the opulent House of the Black Heads — Day 3 in Riga was a full-spectrum sensory assault.
First full day in Riga: the National Museum of Art’s fourteen masters, Museum LV’s contemporary competition, Esplanade Park’s fountains, a Viator taste tour through Central Market’s Zeppelin hangars, a perfect Cobb salad at Abbey, the Black Heads House, and Nepalese dinner at Himalaya.
Day 2 in Tallinn: the incense-filled Nevsky Cathedral, Niguliste’s Dance of Death chapel and thundering pipe organ, an Estonian cooking class with Soviet-era stories, barley bread, Brita cake, and bread bowls under an electric heater in the Old Town square.
Our first meal in Tallinn: Estonian fried cheese, a sauce that waged war on blandness, and an AI-generated jazz soundtrack in a medieval basement. The ferry from Helsinki delivered us to a city that wastes no time making an impression.