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From the turquoise Zhinvali Reservoir to the legendary Ananuri Fortress, Shkmeruli lunch in Kakhaberi, paragliders at Gudauri, and the 14th-century Gergeti Trinity Church at 2,170 metres — a day on the Georgian Military Highway into the heart of the Caucasus.
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From the 1905 funicular climbing 770 metres to Mtatsminda Park’s cliffside Ferris wheel, to the silence of the Pantheon, to eight Georgian tenors singing polyphony in a palace garden — Day 10 was a vertical journey through Tbilisi’s heights.
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From the massive stone pillars of the Chronicles of Georgia to the hilltop walls of Sighnaghi and the rose-scented sanctuary of Bodbe Monastery — a day of monuments, wine, and pilgrimage through Kakheti.
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A rest day in Tbilisi means laundry, cooking, and a full grocery restock. Georgian beans from scratch, a 12-item shopping haul for under €19, and a look ahead to Kakheti wine country.
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A day trip to the 6th-century David Gareji cave monastery on the Azerbaijan border — rainbow mountains, a wind-powered fall, coconut churchkhela at Nato & Gio, and a Georgian road trip playlist.
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From leftover khinkali to Dezerter Bazaar’s sensory overload, a Thai palate reset, Persian shashlik at 1001 Nights, and Brazilian bossa nova at Nilo — Day 6 in Tbilisi was a culinary and cultural hopscotch.
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A private Georgian cooking class — khinkali and khachapuri from scratch — followed by a serendipitous discovery: a hand-painted coffee cup that becomes the morning’s new ritual.
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Tbilisi doesn’t really wake up till 10. Every city has its rhythm, and Tbilisi’s is late — the restaurants open at 9 if you’re lucky, the streets stay quiet, the buses run half-empty. On Day 4, with this knowledge in hand, I made my own breakfast. Groceries from the Day 1 run: eggs, bread, whatever…
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Breakfast of champions at Santino. I ordered an egg omelet — tasty but I couldn’t finish it. Two cups of coffee instead, because I had a long day planned and needed the fuel more than the food. The kind of morning where caffeine is reconnaissance: mapping out the hours ahead while the city wakes up…
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I skipped breakfast and went straight to the museums. Two of them, back to back, on a Tuesday morning in Tbilisi. By the time I stumbled out of the second one, hunger had progressed from a polite suggestion to a physical ache. But in the space between — three and a half hours of Georgian…