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laundry at 8, groceries by 10, a sulfur bath at Gulo’s with hot and cold pools, a new Thai discovery at Baan Thai, and a Candlelight Concert booked for September 27.
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Eleven passengers, a radio playing Shaba Daba Dash, and a four-hour drive through the Caucasus — the quiet return from Armenia to a Tbilisi apartment that now feels like home.
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Saily in Armenia is a tale of two countries: one that works beautifully within a 35‑kilometer radius of Yerevan, and another — basically everything north of Lake Sevan — where the data connection collapses to unusable levels. After testing Saily at nine locations from the capital to the Lori highlands, the verdict is clear. It’s…
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A rainy morning at Yerevan Bakery, then Garni’s 1st-century pagan temple, the basalt Symphony of Stones, a UNESCO rock-cut monastery at Geghard, and lavash baked from scratch — all for $36 USD.
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From a 7:05 AM Tbilisi departure to Yerevan by nightfall — crossing two borders, exploring the 10th-century UNESCO Haghpat Monastery, standing at Lake Sevan’s shore, and discovering Mother Armenia’s Stalin-to-statue history.
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A preparation day for Armenia: the failed search for Armenian Dram, a Dezerter Bazaar sock re-up, a long-awaited chicken pho at Pho Bo, and packing for a 6:45 AM bus — the final Tbilisi day.
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A quiet day of metro neighborhoods and Imeretian khachapuri, then a transcendent evening at the Tbilisi State Conservatoire — Sandro Nebieridze and Sandro Gegechkori unleashing a two-piano rainbow from Montsalvatge to Shostakovich.
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From Varketili to Akhmeteli Theatre — riding Tbilisi’s metro from end to end, exploring neighborhoods and real estate at every stop, plus planning a weekend trip to Armenia.
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A rest day in Tbilisi: fixing a Magti SIM, discovering a hole-in-the-wall biryani, a grocery run, and finally — after two weeks of mountain hikes — a 200 GEL massage that restored body and spirit.
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Glass floors over a canyon, a 14 GEL latte in a diamond, a waterfall rainbow, a second visit to Mtatsminda for Ponchik, and an unexpected Mexican dinner that turned into a menu consultation with the owner.